Ingredients

3 tbsp. olive oil

1/2 lb. oyster mushrooms

1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 lb. shiitake mushrooms

1 lb. cremini mushrooms

6 shallots

4 clove garlic

2 dried chile de arbol peppers

1/2 lemon

1 lb. dried buckwheat soba noodles

1 c. loosely packed mint leaves

Preparation

Step 1Note: Cooking each type of mushroom separately helps them caramelize. To add extra heat to this dish, tear the chile de arbol peppers in half to release their seeds. If you prefer, substitute for the mint 3 to 4 tablespoon of another tender, fresh herb like basil, tarragon, or chives.Step 2Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add oyster mushrooms, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.Step 3Transfer mushrooms to a large plate, scrape out any sticky bits from skillet, and return skillet to medium-high heat.Step 4Repeat cooking process with 1 tablespoon oil, shiitake mushrooms, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, this time cooking for 4 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. (If the skillet seems too dry any time during cooking, add 1 tablespoon or so of water.) Transfer to plate with reserved oyster mushrooms.Step 5Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in skillet, add cremini mushrooms, shallots, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and cook until shallots are just softened and mushrooms are golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes.Step 6Add garlic, peppers, and zest and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute more. Stir in reserved oyster and shiitake mushrooms, then set skillet aside.Step 7Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add noodles and cook according to package instructions. Reserve 3 cups of the cooking water, then drain noodles well.Step 8Return skillet to medium heat and stir 1 1/2 cups of the reserved water into the mushroom mixture. Add noodles and salt and pepper to taste and toss until well coated. (Noodles should be moist, with just a little bit of liquid at the bottom of the skillet. Add more reserved water, as necessary.)Step 9Remove skillet from heat and discard chiles and lemon zest. Add mint, toss well, and serve.